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Island Peak Climbing

Country
Nepal

Duration
24 Days

Maximum altitude
6189 m

Activity
Trekking

Difficulty
Moderate / Difficult

Best Season
October, November, February, March, April

Accomodation
Included

Meals
Included

Start/End Point
Lukla

Overview

 Overview

Island Peak climbing is the most popular trekking peak in Nepal. Island Peak climbing with Everest Base Camp trekking is a wonderful, adventurous trip. The local name of this peak is Imja Tse. It is an isolated peak in Chhukung valley. Actually, this peak is an extension of Mt. Lhotse Shar and is located between Mt Lhotse and Imja glaciers.  It involves one steep and exposed 100 m ice or snow climb, otherwise a nontechnical snow climb. Although the summit(6189m) can be reached on a single day, we stay at high camp one night at its southwest ridge to ensure success.

Island Peak climbing: This peak offers stunning views of the huge south face of Mt. Lhotse (8,501m), Nuptse (7,879m), Lhotse Middle Peak (8,410m), and Lhotse Shar (8,383m) in the north, Mt. Makalu (8475m) and Mt. Amadablam (6856m) in the east, with beautiful sights of the Khumbu region and Chhukung valley. On this trip, first of all, we trek towards Everest Base Camp and Kalapathar, then go to Chhukung valley and start climbing. For climbing this peak, it is not compulsory to have formal climbing training. Any trekkers with good physical health can easily do it.

Island Peak is rated Alpine PD+. The route includes time on snow and ice, a steep head section, and a narrow ridge to the top. Many climbers use fixed ropes there. You will also need crampons and some basic ice skills.

This is not a casual walk. You should have training first, or do a short practical day with your guide. Still, it can be done by people who are in good shape even if they have never climbed before.

High Camp sits near 5,600 m. The area is rocky and open, with only a little level ground for tents. It is also very windy. Strong gusts can move tents all night, so you need a real four-season tent and proper guy lines. A lot of climbers skip this stop and push on to the summit from Chukung or Base Camp instead. They do it to avoid the rough night of little sleep.

Usually from Chukung, the ascent takes about two days. Day one is for reaching Base Camp or High Camp. Then you start the summit attempt very early, often around midnight or 1 or 2 in the morning. After that, you go down again, back to Chukung or to Pangboche.

Start with the Everest Base Camp trek. After that, climb Island Peak. Doing the trek first lets your body get used to the altitude in stages. When you move on to the tough parts later, you should handle the thinner air better. You also improve your odds of reaching the summit.

Going to Island Peak before you are fully acclimatized is riskier. It puts more strain on your body. It is also not the best choice.

Highlights

 Highlights

Head up to a 6,189 m summit, then take in Everest, Lhotse, and Makalu from the top.

This route keeps parts of the older Everest Base Camp path, but it also includes a real summit climb.

On the way, you deal with broken ice, loose rock fields, and a tough climb near the upper section.

You get help from ropes set in place on the hardest moves, and you wear crampons.

Along the trek you pass through Namche and Tengboche to catch day to day Sherpa life, then you move into the Khumbu valley.

For trekkers who want a proper mountaineering challenge, this is a good start in the high altitude zone.

You will rest under large cliffs near spots such as Chukung and also close to Base Camp.

Finish at a well known trekking peak in Nepal, and take your moment at the top.

Outline Itinerary

Outline Itinerary

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Detailed Itinerary
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